Victorian Riding Habit Yuuko - XXXHolic
Ўq - XXXHolic

I fell in love with this costume the moment I saw the tiny thumbnail over at Clamp-net. XD I have always wanted to make a riding habit they are so stylish and feminine. ^_^ So Victorian Riding Habit + Yuuko = OMG I MUST MAKE! I had literally just began to make my first victorian inspired costume,  I already had the corset made so a bustle didn't seem to daunting. 
Thus the adventure began!

My Random Notes and Thoughts 

Examples of Early Bustle Period Dresses

Research, Patterns and fabric:
Before I decided to tackle this one I did a little research just to understand more about bustle style garments. In the Early Bustle Period (1870-1876) the bustles were large and garments had lots of decoration and flounces. I really liked the lines and trains in this style of garment and thought that it would work well with Clamp's design. 
Although Clamp's fabric choice is a flat black I decided to use Damask fabric so it would seem a bit more.... embellished. ^_~ I also used the same Damask fabric for the black overskirt and to cover the top hat. The Champagne colored fabric was a great find! I'm not sure what you would call it but it's from a Decorator Fabric Warehouse and I could buy 20 yards of it for a super cheap price. It has a great weight and is similar to the weave you would find in Taffeta. The light gold and brown fabrics are Shantung from Joann's. Yay for 40% off coupons. lol The total fabric count for this costume is 22 yards. ^_^;; I swear it doesn't feel that heavy when I wear it. lol

The Patterns for this project are drafted and purchased. The underskirt was made from a Truly Victorian Pattern. The Grand Parlor Skirt  (TV202) gave me the fullness and length I was looking for and was very easy to work with. I would highly recommend Truly Victorian  patterns if you are interested in sewing Victorian Style clothing. I did need to remove quite a bit of fullness from the front to make the slit, lengthen the entire hem and added more to the train. The ruffle *shudder* was quite the lengthy endeavor but I think it was worth it. ^_^
The two overskirts (black and champagne) were drafted/draped by hand. They are pretty much large rectangles pleated, gathered and pulled in the right place to achieve the look. ^^ The bodice was drafted using a program called Pattern Master. However because of the fit of the corset and modern clothing cuts it required a bit of fitting and alteration. 

The Bustle, Corset and underthings
I rather enjoyed making my bustle. =D The pattern is made by Mantua Maker, from what I have seen is  the largest bustle pattern out there. Trust me I wanted the largest one I could find! In the end I still needed a bustle pad to support the finished product, but the ample bustle helped a immensely. Although blue wasn't a typical bustle color, I figured why not have matching underpinnings? It's quite the mecha-booty and has been dubbed "Blue Freedom" (sorry for the bad Gundam joke lol)
I made the corset for my first Victorian garb but while I'm at it I might as well share. The pattern used for this corset was by Laughing Moon, the Silverado view. Instead of spiral steel I decided to try the Plastic Whale Bone, which I found to be very comfortable. I also used a Lacing Bone in back of the corset which is a GREAT way to keep those grommets from ripping your fabric when you lace. =D
Oh yeah, I had to make some pantaloons. How could I not?
Blue Freedon ikimasu!

Accessories & Misc. 
Hat- The hat was "made" using a $10 costume hat from a local costume shop, then I covered it using the same black fabric as the rest of the outfit. The bird was the most difficult part of the hat. I purchased a white peacock and painted it to match the drawing. Unfortunately the Peacock didn't have the correct tail feathers or wings for that matter. The tail feathers just need a little curling, but I had to make wings for Tori-chan. XD 

Makoto: OMG! Are you ironing that hat on your hand!?
Ringo: *shifty eyes* Nooooo? 

Banners - Heat'n'Bond Ultra and iron on transfers. =D I made them in the hotel room. lol Yay! 

Wig - Well you can't really see the back of Yuuko's head so I just made it up. =D After a little experimentation I came up with this bun here. ^_^

Riding Crop - $3 costume shop prop + gold trim + tassels = Yuuko-tastic accessory

Parasol - Haven't made one yet, the riding crop was enough to keep up with for now. lol 


Photo credits - Nick, Makoto, Al © 2005