Victorian Riding Habit Yuuko - XXXHolic
˜ÐŽq - XXXHolic
I fell in love with this costume the moment I saw the tiny thumbnail
over at Clamp-net. XD I have always wanted to make a riding habit they
are so stylish and feminine. ^_^ So Victorian Riding Habit + Yuuko = OMG
I MUST MAKE! I had literally just began to make my
first victorian inspired costume, I already had the corset made
so a bustle didn't seem to daunting.
Thus the adventure began!
My Random Notes and Thoughts
Examples of Early Bustle Period Dresses
Research, Patterns and fabric:
Before I decided to tackle this one I did a little research just to
understand more about bustle style garments. In the Early Bustle Period
(1870-1876) the bustles were large and garments had lots of decoration
and flounces. I really liked the lines and trains in this style of garment
and thought that it would work well with Clamp's design.
Although Clamp's fabric choice is a flat black I decided to use Damask
fabric so it would seem a bit more.... embellished. ^_~ I also used the
same Damask fabric for the black overskirt and to cover the top hat. The
Champagne colored fabric was a great find! I'm not sure what you would
call it but it's from a Decorator Fabric Warehouse and I could buy 20 yards
of it for a super cheap price. It has a great weight and is similar to
the weave you would find in Taffeta. The light gold and brown fabrics are
Shantung from Joann's. Yay for 40% off coupons. lol The total fabric count
for this costume is 22 yards. ^_^;; I swear it doesn't feel that heavy
when I wear it. lol
The Patterns for this project are drafted and purchased. The underskirt
was made from a Truly
Victorian Pattern. The Grand Parlor Skirt (TV202) gave me the
fullness and length I was looking for and was very easy to work with. I
would highly recommend Truly Victorian patterns if you are interested
in sewing Victorian Style clothing. I did need to remove quite a bit of
fullness from the front to make the slit, lengthen the entire hem and added
more to the train. The ruffle *shudder* was quite the lengthy endeavor
but I think it was worth it. ^_^
The two overskirts (black and champagne) were drafted/draped by hand.
They are pretty much large rectangles pleated, gathered and pulled in the
right place to achieve the look. ^^ The bodice was drafted using a program
called Pattern Master. However because of the fit of the corset and modern
clothing cuts it required a bit of fitting and alteration.
|The Bustle, Corset and underthings
I rather enjoyed making my bustle. =D The
pattern is made by Mantua Maker, from what I have seen is the
largest bustle pattern out there. Trust me I wanted the largest one I could
find! In the end I still needed a bustle pad to support the finished product,
but the ample bustle helped a immensely. Although blue wasn't a typical
bustle color, I figured why not have matching underpinnings? It's quite
the mecha-booty and has been dubbed "Blue Freedom" (sorry for the bad Gundam
I made the corset for my first Victorian garb but while I'm at it I
might as well share. The pattern used for this corset was by Laughing
Moon, the Silverado view. Instead of spiral steel I decided to try
the Plastic Whale Bone, which I found to be very comfortable. I also used
Bone in back of the corset which is a GREAT way to keep those grommets
from ripping your fabric when you lace. =D
Oh yeah, I had to make some pantaloons. How could I not?
|Accessories & Misc.
Hat- The hat was "made" using a $10 costume hat from a local costume
shop, then I covered it using the same black fabric as the rest of the
outfit. The bird was the most difficult part of the hat. I purchased a
white peacock and painted it to match the drawing. Unfortunately the Peacock
didn't have the correct tail feathers or wings for that matter. The tail
feathers just need a little curling, but I had to make wings for Tori-chan.
Makoto: OMG! Are you ironing that hat on your hand!?
Ringo: *shifty eyes* Nooooo?
Banners - Heat'n'Bond Ultra and iron on transfers. =D I made them in
the hotel room. lol Yay!
Wig - Well you can't really see the back of Yuuko's head so I just made
it up. =D After a little experimentation I came up with this bun here.
Riding Crop - $3 costume shop prop + gold trim + tassels = Yuuko-tastic
Parasol - Haven't made one yet, the riding crop was enough to keep up
with for now. lol
Photo credits - Nick, Makoto, Al